When is sweet not sweet?
Poor old Mars PLC, their range of Dolmio sources have been the focus of attention since they warned their customers that they were for occasional consumption only. On their website all the ingredients are clearly presented and they are not dissimilar to rival products in this large sector of the food industry.
They were criticised for the fat, salt and sugar content of their range but to be honest these figures would not be any different from a home ‘prepared from scratch’ version. For example the average sugar content was 4.2g per 100g of sauce. That’s only a teaspoon in a very large dollop of sauce (fresh tomatoes would match that)... there was 5g of fat and 0.8g of salt or other words less than a teaspoon of olive oil and a pinch of salt. So why the warning?
There is however something common to nearly all mass produced, thickened, sweetish liquid products from yoghurt drinks to soups and sauces.
The story goes way back to the late 1950’s when the food industry in the US was converting its excess cereals to new products which were proving very popular with the prepared food industry. These were the product of breaking down starch into smaller molecules by a process called hydrolysis. These products are called hydrolysates and in descending order of complexity and thickening power are: partially hydrolysed starch/modified starch; glucose syrups; oligosaccharides/maltodextrins. All are made from glucose molecules and the products get sweeter as they get simpler and more like glucose. They are used extensively to thicken and sweeten food products.
Clearly these products are sugar-like and the challenge was and is to say how glucose-like they are if only for the purposes of labelling but more importantly for concerns on the effects of excess consumption of sugar.
Work carried out in the early 1960’s1 showed clearly that the real-life absorption of glucose in the intestine derived from these products was very rapid indeed, often exceeding that of pure glucose and greater than that of sugar (sucrose). Moreover the products which were first broken down to maltose (glucose-glucose) was itself used as a fuel by the intestines’ cellsl to power the process of absorption. This was a very important finding and one which is well understood by the food industry and overlooked by its lablling.
GI ( glycemic index) v the modern food label.
One classification of the rate of uptake of glucose from foods is the glycemic index(GI). This index measures how much and how quickly glucose enters the bloodstream after eating a particular food. The reference point is glucose itself and other foods are rated against this. It is therefore not surprising to find that maltodextrins which are small molecules having 3 to 20 glucose molecules in them have high GI indices and the sugars in a complex food like sweet dates have a relatively low GI. Unfortunately the GI rating is full of counterintuitive anomalies; fructose, a simple sugar, has a low GI and potatoes (quite clearly ‘complex’) can have very high GI’s. GI is actually useful for measuring glucose availability but is steadily dropping from labelling for the confusing reasons above. Instead we have standardised and now familiar analyses which read ‘carbohydrates of which sugars’.
Here ‘sugars’ are glucose, maltose, lactose and sucrose. What we call ‘sugar’ is sucrose alone. Carbohydrates would include partially hydrolysed starch, corn syrups and maltodextrins as well as the whole starches from flours.
The point I am making is that in terms of the sugar-equivalent effects the label under estimates the bio-available ‘sugariness’. This means a thick soup or drinking yogurt may have a lot more sugar-equivalents in it via maltodextrins and the like than is obvious from looking at the ‘sugars’ content.
To go full circle to the first paragraph you don’t have to be sweet to be sugary! This may be why manufacturers are getting twitchy about the healthiness of their soups and sauces. It also explains why ‘home made’ may have the same labeled amounts of sugars as the manufactured stuff but be nowhere near as potentially taxing on your insulin response to sugar uptake.
- THE ABSORPTION OF SUCROSE, MALTOSE AND HIGHER OLIGOSACCHARIDES FROM THE ISOLATED RAT SMALL INTESTINE BY E. B. CHAIN, K. R. L. MANSFORD AND F. POCCHIARI.